finally... a city with (musical) importance...

It’s been a while since I lived in a city that loves music as much as I do… haha… who am I kidding, I have never lived in such a city. I lived fantasizing about such places (in Canada those cities would be Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver). Growing up I woud drool whenever Much Music would play their concert listing ads (MuchMusic = MTV = same same). These were really flashy adverts telling you which awesome bands were coming to ‘a city near you’. Yes, I highlighted something in that statement, they would also say coming to ‘a city NEAR you’, after this a list of days/places said concert would scroll onscreen. To bring an end to the suspense I can tell you that Calgary rarely had a day set aside, and only if you considered 1000km close could you believe their ‘near’ tagline. Instead my body’s liquid reserves would switch from the drool of eager anticipation, to melancholic tears.

As you can probably imagine I grew up rather stinted in my concert development. Luckily, recording devices were invented long before my birth, and the recorded sound had an easy to collect medium, and collect I did, why? I did it because I was raised in a house by parents who had a love for music. I was raised with dates,  names, and genres that allowed me to explore all that music had to offer. My parents also had an organized love for music, it had a role to play in our lives. There was music to relax to (Stevie Ray Vaughn – The Sky is Crying), to drive to (Pink Floyd – Pulse or Momentary Lapse of Reason) and, even music set aside to clean to (Billy Idol- Vidol Idol). I can even tell you my musical firsts with genuine enthousiasm; My first tape: Weird Al Yankovic’s Bad Hair Day (the one with Amish Paradise on it!). My first CD(s): (given) Chumbawamba’s Tubthumper (still awesome, I listened to it yesterday…seriously), (bought) Rob Zombie’s Hellbilly Deluxe. My first concert was Colin James at the Calgary Stampede, but it was so horrible that my Dad and I credit my first experience to our next concert together, AC/DC.

My love for music spread into all facets of my life in fact I even wrote about my narcissistic obsession for music in a uni paper, aptly entited ‘music is my consumerism’. I got an A (or 1.3/4.0/93% depending on your grading scheme) justifying my obscure view of music, fucking eh! I would later go on in Uni to achieve a 95% overall average in a year long (two semester) History of Rock & Roll course (side-note, I would work at Blockbuster during the scheduled lecture periods). Before you switch off, and stop reading, I don’t include these facts and figures to brag comrades! I include them to demonstrate and numerically prove my love/fascination/obsession for the art of sound.

To bring cities and live music back into play, I consider them vital in terms of gauging a love for music. The recorded sound can undergo numerous changes after the fact; live audio can rarely pull of this deception. I gauge how good bands are based on live performances: Example a positive case; At the first (and only) White Stripes concert I attended, onlookers described me as a retarded 5 year old flailing around in my seat, my gf at the time was a tad embarrassed, but mostly laughed (I have little recognition what I did, it was the closest I have ever come an out of body experience) It can also have a negative effect; When I first saw Metallica perform (the dreadful St. Anger Tour) I didn’t pick up, or turn on another song of theirs for over a year! (lucky for them they came back to Calgary and they totally redeemed themselves)

The only way that I would ever be able to make up for the lack of live music in my life was to see basically everything that came to Calgary. With such an approach I had a lot of repeats, Finger Eleven 8 times, Matthew Good (including MGB) 8 times, Thornley 5 times and Our Lady Peace 6 times. Most would not recognize these bands, because for the most part they are small Canadian bands, the exception would be Our Lady Peace who was a big Canadian band. Calgary either got smaller-medium sized Canadian bands or relatively larger International acts, which would come on the 3rd or 4th leg of tours (rarely at the beginning). Calgary was not a great market for emerging acts.

There are two reasons this happened in my opinion, firstly while I was growing up Calgary didn’t have a great population base or enough wealth to draw acts there in the first place. Calgary often had to be combine it’s market with Edmonton’s (300km away) to attract bands. This actually created sub-scenes that thrived based on acts, example! Edmonton had the hardcore punk scene, Calgary had the metal scene, and this was reflected in bands choosing cities to perform in (AFI (pre emo)- went to Edmonton, Avenged Sevenfold – came to Calgary). This fact leads to the second reason: Alberta was geographically isolated, often emerging acts travel by shitty van, and with only one city to choose from, and little else there to justify the travel costs, they would say fuck it.

Unfortunately for me Seoul was an even more desolate musical marketplace. K-pop reigned supreme, and even if I did like K-Pop the music was so overly produced the acts rarely toured. In my two years in Seoul I only saw one act of any notoriety whatsoever (That act happened to be Eric Clapton, stadium picture above). I always felt that major cities in the world got better musical acts; Seoul proved me wrong. It is one of the largest cities in the world (#3 by population) and boasts few acts. It wasn’t the population draw that was the issue, it was the fact that Seoul is not near shit (geographic isolation), and bands would incur massive logistic costs to play there. Most bands play the summer music festivals because they can also play the Japanese music festivals either before or after.

 During my hiatus from Canada, Calgary proved to become more relevant to bands. The reason has to do with the population base. Alberta is a growing province; it has an increasing population but more importantly increasing wealth (because of Oil). The factor that bands really care about is the wealth increase, and the geographic isolation factor become overruled because the two markets split their dependence on each other. Back to my prior example, the dominance of the Edmonton hardcore scene, and Calgary Metal scene became irrelevant because both markets had created enough wealth to attract bands to both cities. In the short time I was home this summer I saw Coldplay and the Black Keys. Also demonstrating the shift, Coldplay (pictured at the top) started their North American Tour in Edmonton, and the Black Keys (pictured above left) came to Calgary on the second leg of their North American tour (before they went to Europe).

Finally reaching my conclusion, I’ve moved to Europe, a historical mecca for music. Hamburg in particular has an amazing history in terms of live music. The Beatles made a name for themselves here playing countless hours between 1960-1962. These years are viewed as crucial in their development due to the fact that they would often play 3-4 sets a day for weeks on end. There are several outstanding live venues around the city where you can catch musical acts in all stages of development; I checked out the Alabama Shakes (who I believe deserve to break into the big time) in a venue of 400 people. Hamburg also has the Large acts covered; Muse will be here in December on the first leg of their tour (also going to Calgary on the first leg of their N/A tour).

Hamburg is in an opium den of music, a place where ear-gasms should be a regular occurance, but I currently live under the fiscal constraints of student life. The city is alive with the sound of music, but I’m held to a tight budget that creates the question, dinner or concert? Do I eat? Or do I see so and so? It’s a question that would enrage many starving people in the world, and perhaps my mother (I swear I eat green vegetables everyday mom!). I should be brought to tears, and film a panning ‘NO’ sequence in the pouring rain (which would be easy cause it rains a lot here!). Finally I live in a city of musical relevance, but I lack the funds to actually partake. It’s like salt on a wound, kicking a man while he’s down, or any other cliché attempting to convey meaning of a shitty fucking situation. However! There is a catch my friends; I’ve been lucky enough to meet, rent the couch of and, befriend a concert promoter. Everyone can say they are on a concert guest list, but the difference is that I can add to my addiction by actually knowing someone who is, VICTORY!!!!

boiling frog...

I  have such a hard time throwing a football, I don't get it. I think myself into confusion, and when I throw a good spiral I jinx myself. My thought process is kind of as follows. Remember it's not a baseball, it's not a baseball.. okay wind up (like a baseball) grip the laces (kinda like a baseball) at the top of the throw, release. I try to remember what Tom told me as well "If your arm feels weird when you throw it, you know you did it right". However, my arm wouldn't feel weird and the ball would wobble through the air. I'd remember in hindsight that I forgot to point with my lead foot where I wanted the ball to go (again something I learned while playing baseball). I continue with this internal monologue every couple of seconds, and only occasionally would the ball would flow aerodynamically through the air. 

With my skill level, and the unpredictable bounces that accompany any drop of a football, it didn't really surprise me that on Saturday my friends and I were able to carve out a section of grass amid thousands of spectators. While some observers were keen on watching us, and a few children joining us (above), most were there to witness a firework display. I attended this fireworks festival last year, well I partially attended. My friend and I left halfway through because of the insane amount of people gathered. There were no fewer people this year, I just arrived early enough to not be as bothered (think frog in slowly boiling water scenario).

I realized that the pot was becoming full when the 3G network in the park stopped working. It's the first fault I've ever found with any Korean technological system. There were simply so many people in the park attempting to use 3G, that the network couldn't handle the workload. Oh, this overload occurred at around 4pm, four and a half hours before the fireworks were scheduled to start. It was around this time that our football playground became cramped, people would drop their mats (Koreans sit on mats when they sit outside, then they take off their shoes and sit on the mats, while outside. It's strange, I know and I don't have an explanation beyond Korean's aversion to anything 'dirty') and claim victory over their piece of dying grass.

As the people packed in along with the darkness, it was almost time for fireworks. I spent the final hour or so playing around with my camera. Armed with my new tripod and a few tips I picked up from the internet, I positioned my camera where I thought the fireworks were going to be. It turned out that I was a little further away and incorrectly aimed than I originally planned (as you can see from the pictures, above and below). In the end I got some great shots, but was prevented from so many more because of the distance, and the fact that I took all the photos using a 2 second timer (anticipation! YAY).

Leaving the event was a nightmare, as fine as I was with being slowly boiled by spectators, I wasn't fine with being trampled by pedestrians. My friends and I waited at least a half hour, and the stampede out of the park was still flowing steady. The subway station at the park was shut down due to congestion, and the bridge across the river had streams of people flowing towards Hongdae. I went against the flow, and returned home. The problem is that I was still traipsing along with a couple thousand other people avoiding the bridge.

reuse & recycle...

The Seonyudo islet is a tiny strip of land that rests in the middle of the Han river. This piece of land was first utilized in 1978 as a sewage treatment plant, and provided tap water to residents south of the Han river. Things worked that way until 1998 when the Seoul Metro Government started to shut the plant down. The city wanted to figure out at a way to turn the land into something useful once the plant would be completely shut down in 2000. After some deliberation and thought, the city invested a lot of money (16 billion won) into the island to create Seoul's first recycled park. The idea of recycling land for parks was later used at World Cup Stadium, where a landfill was converted into one of the cities largest, and nicest parks.

In 2004, the Seonyudo Park opened with many pieces of the sewage plant remaining. Parts of the plant were completely destroyed while others were converted into theme areas and gardens. The former pump house was converted into a cafe, and is the only place you can buy food on the island. One of the resting tanks was revamped into an amphitheatre, while several others currently house varieties of water plants. The park is also home to a museum on the history of the Han River, and a greenhouse filled with botanical plants. To increase acces to the park the city constructed a bridge cleverly nicknamed 'rainbow bridge'. The nickname is clever, because at nightly when it is illuminated by various coloured lights, it looks like a rainbow (aparantly). I have never seen this bridge, or island, at night, so I can't really offer any colourful commentary about it. I hear it is a big reason why the island is popular with couples.

I first stumbled upon this green space while on a bike ride along the river. My friend and I were not able to visit this refuge due to a strict no bike policy, and we didn't have locks, so I vowed to return. It would take me a further three months before I would return to this spot. I didn't know it's name, nor did I even really remember where it was. A random trek to the river in search of the island paid dividends. I found and somewhat fell in love with the park, and the gardens contained within. It's all based on escapism, I love the idea that I can escape to place like this in the mega city known as Seoul.
 

This park is a renowned romantic spot in Seoul, couples usually flank the pathways on blankets with picnics, and the bridge at night (as previously mentioned). It is also an extremely popular destination for photographers. The Pillar garden? (I have no idea what it's called) is a hot spot for photo shoots. I haven't been able to stroll past it without people dressed up in some sort of costume or period attire being photographed. Apparently numerous Korean celebrities have also done photo shoots at this spot.

In the times that I have been I have seen some girls in some very interesting costumes. I'm assuming they are some sort of anime costume. They weave through the pillars with ribbons and laser guns firing. On my last visit I happened to notice an entire group of men dressed in American military uniforms with air-soft guns and gas masks. The thing that this area does really have going for it is this dystopian image of a future overgrown with (meticulously) manicured gardens. 

I've come to use the island for similar reasons, while not actually doing photo shoots. I come to the park to fool around with my camera. I have had a lot of fun while playing around with my camera and the different theme areas on the island. There are so many different textures and surfaces on the island which create interesting photos. While I haven't come to the island for any romantic excursions, I can see how it earns the reputation. At the very least it is a great place to come and hide from the hustle and bustle that is Seoul.

 take me there:

• Subway Line #9 to Seonyudo station (exit 2) walk straight, and walk across the Rainbow Bridge.
• Subway Line #2 to Dangsan Station (exit #1) then bus (605, 6623, 6631, 6632, or 6633) getting off at Hanshin Apts then walking across the Rainbow Bridge
• Subway Line #2 or #6 to Hapjeong Station (exit #8) then bus (604, 5712, 6712, or 6716) or walk to Hanshin Apts then walking across the Rainbow Bridge

햄버거 hembeogeo, not hamburger...

A review: Jacoby's Burger

I've never really done a review of a restaurant in Seoul. I find my vocabulary is rather limited when it comes to food. I mean I teach my children adjectives, and how to correctly order and sequence them. Yet I find myself at a loss when I attempt them use at all. I was recently recruited to write a piece on street food in Seoul. I was really excited, although I was informed that my photos would not be included in the publication. I sat for weeks staring at a blank page. I couldn't find a way to connect what I saw in the photo to words. I had some stories, and in hindsight perhaps that is what they wanted. While my review is not going to be on street food, or even Korean food.

It's summertime in the city, and as much as I love Korean food. I'm not sure how well a lot of Korean dishes translate in the summer. There is nothing that I have found that equates the taste and essence of summer quite like BBQ does. I like BBQ, and perfecting grill marks on individual grains of rice would be monotonous, and not really my style. Yet I love grilling unusual fare, I once successfully BBQ'd pierogies, with onion and kielbasa skewers, anywho, off topic.

Hamburgers are one of the foods I first think of when it comes to summer and the BBQ. I don't think that this is really a concept that is lost on many N/A expats. It's a food that we (well not really me, but as a landmass) created. This review is also in somewhat of a rebellion against an expat magazine article. The article was about the 10 best burgers in Korea (inform yourself!). Although restaurant reviewing and sampling is all subjective, and people have differing tastes.


I believe the best hamburger I've had in Seoul is from Jacoby's, an institution that was not even included in the previously mentioned article. The place is located in Haebangchon, an area which has quickly become one of my favourite places in the city.

Here the burgers are made fresh and to order. This often leads to a long waiting time, yet this place is not fast food and good things do come to those who wait. Another advantage of this made to order system is that the beef slaughter system in Asia differs from the one in N/A. The beef used in Jacoby's is from Australia, and it doesn't follow the same mass production methods utilized by the USDA and CFIA. To some people you may wonder why this is important, it basically means that you can enjoy medium rare burgers here! Instead of having to burn the fuck outta the thing.

The burgers here are pricey, but I figure they are well worth it. I've always had this mantra that if you want something done right you have to pay for it. If you want crap you can always order from McDonalds or buy shit from China. Craftsmanship is something that takes time, and shouldn't be taken lightly. At Jacoby's the food is well constructed, although is not earthquake proof, and will fall over if the plate is shaken. All the meals in the pictures range from 10,000 to 14,000 including cola. Fries are considered an extra (add 3,000), and considering the size of the burger if you are really hungry, then by all means order them. I also hear that there vegetarian burger is good, I'll have to take the rumor on that one. I've never eaten any, so even if I did try it here I wouldn't have the faintest idea what to compare it to.

When it comes to flavour, the food here is great. You can actually taste meat in the burger unlike many other places I've been to in Seoul. I find that a lot of the competition in Korea seem to follow a mundane formula when they make their patties, and they don't include anything to compliment the meat. At Jacoby's your patty can come with rosemary or garlic, which add to the taste and texture of the meat. The shape of finished product also brings back memories of my father's burgers. They aren't flat, they come out looking more like oblong baseballs than flattened hockey pucks.

There are a handful of choices when it comes to toppings at Jacoby's and you can enjoy everything from a basic burger, to a designer burger on steroids. The more willing you are to test your palate the better, and Jacoby's has offerings that stir the imagination. From pineapple and guacamole to chilli and chips, along with numerous cheeses you can dress up your burger as exotic as you'd like.

One knock against the place is that food arrives off kilter. It's actually something I've become used to in Asia, they aren't really great on time planning meals. It does become rather bothersome when you travel here in groups. Mostly because the burgers are so juicy that one person is all greased up before others get their shot to moisturize their hands/arms/ lap (if you're unlucky) with burger drippings.

Some may say that the price, and waiting time should be considered a knock as well. I differ from that, mostly because I'm writing about good food, not quick cheap food. I think that if you are going to have a 'best' of something price shouldn't be a huge determining factor. The waiting time can be annoying when you are hungry, or watching other people grease up. I still don't see it affecting taste, the restaurants improper time management skills has little to do with the food, and perhaps it's better that these burgers are delivered randomly instead of waiting patiently under heat lamps.

How to get there: Noksapyeong (Line 6) take exit 2, when the road forks stick along the wall with the Kimchi pots. Walk about Two blocks up, and It will be on the right side of the road.